Peaks of the Balkans (Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro )

Our alpine odyssey begins with a warm welcome at Tirana Airport. From there, we travel north to the legendary city of Shkodra, the proud capital of northern Albania—where stone streets, artisan cafés, and a centuries-old spirit meet at the foot of the wild.

From the heights of Rozafa Castle, the land unfolds like a storybook: wide fertile plains, the glimmer of Lake Shkodra—the largest in the Balkans—and the silvery line of the Adriatic far in the distance. We settle into our hotel and wander through the city’s pedestrian heart, where echoes of medieval Venice blend with Albanian soul.

After breakfast, the road calls. We leave behind the softness of the lake and enter the fierce beauty of the Albanian Alps. The serpentine route threads through narrow gorges, past villages carved into stone, winding up to Leqet e Hotit Pass—a viewpoint that reveals the full breath of the northern wilderness.

We descend into the storybook village of Tamara, sip coffee by the crystal waters of the Cem River, then climb through the Selca Valley to Lepushe, where a modest church marks the start of our trek along Mount Bordolec (1,780 m). As peaks sharpen around us, we reach Vermosh, tucked in a secluded alpine basin, and embrace local hospitality in a traditional guesthouse.

Fueled by a hearty mountain breakfast, we ascend once again—this time along a remote trail skirting the old border with Montenegro. Abandoned outposts of a bygone era dot our path, now silent beneath the shadow of the Karanfili limestone massif.

The summit of Tajlanka (2,050 m) rewards our climb with sweeping views and a sense of sublime isolation. We descend into the lush Gerbaja Valley, where our transport awaits to carry us to the village of Vuthaj, nestled high in the Montenegrin Alps.

A visit to the Blue Eye of Skakavac, a vivid karst spring, marks our morning before we cross back into Albania through the remote Ropojana Valley. Mules carry our luggage as we hike past Lake Gjeshtar, old army stations, and the crumbling pyramid that once marked a tightly sealed border.

The alpine trail leads us past the towering peaks of Jezerca and Karanfili, until we reach Qafa e Pejes Pass (1,795 m)—a meeting point of old paths and new wanderers. We descend through thick conifer forests into the enchanting valley of Theth, where a cozy guesthouse awaits.

Today, the rhythm slows. We follow the Theth River, visit the Kulla e Ngujimit to learn of ancient highland codes, and hike to the roaring Grunas Waterfall, tumbling 25 meters from a cliff face.

Continuing along the valley toward Nderlysa, we witness where the Theth River meets its glacial twin—flowing from the deep blue eye of the Alps. After refreshing ourselves in nature’s own pools, we return to our guesthouse beneath a sky already stitched with stars.

We tackle one of the most iconic trails in the Balkans: the crossing from Theth to Valbona via the majestic Valbona Pass (1,860 m). With views of both valleys stretching endlessly on either side, we hike through ancient beech forests, pause at mountain huts, and take in the ethereal grandeur of Albania’s glacial north.

At the pass, the full splendor of the Alps opens to us—and by evening, we descend into Valbona, welcomed by alpine charm and a hearty meal.

The adventure begins from our Guesthouse. From here, we lace up and head northward, gradually ascending toward the remote mountain village of Çerem, perched at 1,200 meters.
The trail guides us through vibrant alpine meadows and untouched landscapes, with towering pines and the distant murmur of mountain streams. As we approach the Sqapi Pass—standing tall at 1,880 meters and brushing Montenegro’s border—the panorama opens wide, offering sweeping views and a sense of awe, 
twice along the way, we cross refreshing alpine streams that cut through the terrain like silver threads. At a scenic vantage point, we pause for a picnic amid the silence and majesty of the mountains.
The descent winds gently back to Çerem, where the afternoon welcomes us with quiet charm and rustic hospitality. In the evening, a delicious home-cooked meal awaits at our guesthouse—an authentic taste of highland life.

The landscape changes, with the rugged western Karst Alps giving way to the gentler mountain landscape of the eastern Alps. The trek takes us towards the border triangle, where we briefly follow the rough road that connects the last summer pastures with the Valbona Valley. For a while, we are back in Montenegro, where we can snack on berries along the way and marvel at the lush flowers. At the foothills of Albania's newest national park, with a little luck we may spot the national animal, the eagle. Finally, we reach the glacier-formed high alpine pasture of Doberdol, 1750 m. The highest overnight stay of the trip is with a family in a hut with mattresses and a simple dining area. There is no electricity here except for a solar panel, but we don't have to do without a simple shower. We enjoy the unique location of the accommodation and look up at a thousand stars shining in the night sky.

the final trekking day brings yet another highlight: a return to Kosovo, with the option to summit the country’s highest peak.
We begin below the meeting point of three borders—Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo—once more accompanied by pack animals. The trail ascends over slopes rich with blueberry bushes, across open pastures and through alpine tundra, reaching a scenic ridgeline that traces the border.
From here, a gentle high trail offers sweeping views of Kosovo’s rugged peaks and winding mountain streams. After passing a glacial lake, we reach the saddle at 2,464 m. Those who wish can ascend Gjeravica, Kosovo’s highest mountain at 2,656 m, in about 30 minutes.
The descent reveals more crystal-clear lakes before ending at a small mountain settlement, where off-road vehicles await. A scenic 1.5-hour drive brings us to the city of Gjakovë , where a warm welcome awaits at a family-run hotel with a cozy atmosphere—a perfect place to unwind and reflect on the journey

After a restful night in Gjakovë, we set off once more toward Albania’s vibrant capital. Crossing the small border into northern Albania, we journey to Lake Komani for one of the most scenic highlights of the tour—a breathtaking 2.5-hour boat ride through dramatic mountain landscapes often referred to as the “fjords of the Balkans.”

Gliding through narrow gorges and emerald waters, we witness Albania’s raw beauty from a new perspective. Upon arrival in Tirana, we dive into a guided city tour that offers insight into the country’s mountain heritage and the dynamic pulse of its capital—now considered one of the most energetic and creative urban centers in the Balkans.

From ancient tales to modern rhythms, Tirana blends tradition with transformation—and offers the perfect finale to our journey

As we bid farewell to Albania, a blend of reluctance and anticipation to return accompanies us. Exchanging contact details with each other for plan sharing photos, and cherished memories from this journey, and the wish to return back again to Albania Departing with hearts full of joy, we head home.