Our alpine odyssey begins with a warm welcome at Tirana Airport. From there, we travel north to the legendary city of Shkodra, the proud capital of northern Albania—where stone streets, artisan cafés, and a centuries-old spirit meet at the foot of the wild.

From the heights of Rozafa Castle, the land unfolds like a storybook: wide fertile plains, the glimmer of Lake Shkodra—the largest in the Balkans—and the silvery line of the Adriatic far in the distance. We settle into our hotel and wander through the city’s pedestrian heart, where echoes of medieval Venice blend with Albanian soul.

After breakfast, the road calls. We leave behind the softness of the lake and enter the fierce beauty of the Albanian Alps. The serpentine route threads through narrow gorges, past villages carved into stone, winding up to Leqet e Hotit Pass—a viewpoint that reveals the full breath of the northern wilderness.

We descend into the storybook village of Tamara, sip coffee by the crystal waters of the Cem River, then climb through the Selca Valley to Lepushe, where a modest church marks the start of our trek along Mount Bordolec (1,780 m). As peaks sharpen around us, we reach Vermosh, tucked in a secluded alpine basin, and embrace local hospitality in a traditional guesthouse.

Fueled by a hearty mountain breakfast, we ascend once again—this time along a remote trail skirting the old border with Montenegro. Abandoned outposts of a bygone era dot our path, now silent beneath the shadow of the Karanfili limestone massif.

The summit of Tajlanka (2,050 m) rewards our climb with sweeping views and a sense of sublime isolation. We descend into the lush Gerbaja Valley, where our transport awaits to carry us to the village of Vuthaj, nestled high in the Montenegrin Alps.

A visit to the Blue Eye of Skakavac, a vivid karst spring, marks our morning before we cross back into Albania through the remote Ropojana Valley. Mules carry our luggage as we hike past Lake Gjeshtar, old army stations, and the crumbling pyramid that once marked a tightly sealed border.

The alpine trail leads us past the towering peaks of Jezerca and Karanfili, until we reach Qafa e Pejes Pass (1,795 m)—a meeting point of old paths and new wanderers. We descend through thick conifer forests into the enchanting valley of Theth, where a cozy guesthouse awaits.

Today, the rhythm slows. We follow the Theth River, visit the Kulla e Ngujimit to learn of ancient highland codes, and hike to the roaring Grunas Waterfall, tumbling 25 meters from a cliff face.

Continuing along the valley toward Nderlysa, we witness where the Theth River meets its glacial twin—flowing from the deep blue eye of the Alps. After refreshing ourselves in nature’s own pools, we return to our guesthouse beneath a sky already stitched with stars.

We tackle one of the most iconic trails in the Balkans: the crossing from Theth to Valbona via the majestic Valbona Pass (1,860 m). With views of both valleys stretching endlessly on either side, we hike through ancient beech forests, pause at mountain huts, and take in the ethereal grandeur of Albania’s glacial north.

At the pass, the full splendor of the Alps opens to us—and by evening, we descend into Valbona, welcomed by alpine charm and a hearty meal.